South Georgia Heritage Trust

SGHT cruise to South Georgia

On the 25th of March 2009 the small Russian cruise ship the Grigoriy Mikheev set sail from Stanley on a two week journey to South Georgia. On board were 31 passengers including the trustees of the South Georgia Heritage Trust, the Trust's patron, Her Royal Highness The Princess Royal and her husband, Vice Admiral Timothy Laurence, and a small number of invited passengers, amongst them some noted South Georgia experts.

The vessel was chartered by SGHT trustee Professor Frederik Paulsen. We are immensely grateful to Frederik for his generosity in meeting the costs of the cruise and thereby making it possible for our patron and the trustees to undertake this expedition together. The purpose of the cruise was to enable trustees to assess at first hand the long term management strategies and conservation needs of South Georgia. We have no doubt that it will contribute towards the important work to be undertaken by the Trust in the future.

On the journey to South Georgia we enjoyed the company of the numerous seabirds - in particular albatrosses and petrels, together with fur seals and dolphins around the ship, and a few sightings of Fin Whales. We all learned from our bird and mammal experts, and from a lecture programme covering natural history, biology, fisheries, conservation strategies and management of South Georgia. In addition we were treated to a first time showing of an exhibition of South Georgia art by the very talented Professor Elaine Shemilt, who had created new works of art for the cruise, including depictions of South Georgia’s whaling stations.

Our first sighting of South Georgia on 28 March was in stunning weather, and we made our first landfall later that day at Bird Island. Special permission had been given by British Antarctic Survey and the Government of South Georgia for a visit to the research station to meet the scientists and field staff, and see the Giant Petrels, South Georgia pipits and pintails and of course the magnificent Wandering Albatrosses. Seeing the wonderful variety of small birds at Bird Island showed us what could be achieved in other areas of South Georgia by a successful Habitat Restoration programme.

Wanderers Wandering albatrosses on Bird Island. Photo by Dr Tony Martin

By the following day the weather had deteriorated somewhat and a strong northerly wind prevented us from making our planned landings at Salisbury Plain and Prion Island. However we enjoyed a visit and long walk at Stromness Bay where we encountered fur seals, gentoo and King penguins and a large herd of reindeer as we looked across at Stromness whaling station.

On the 30th of March spirits were high as we sailed towards Grytviken, although tinged with sadness as The Princess Royal and Admiral Laurence had to leave us that day to begin their return journey to the Falkland Islands aboard the fishery patrol vessel MV Pharos. However Her Royal Highness and Admiral Laurence had a busy day ahead of them before they boarded the Pharos. They were met on arrival by South Georgia Government Chief Executive Harriet Hall and Government Officer Emma Jones, who escorted the Royal Party to Hope Point and the King Edward Point BAS research base.

The Royal Party then walked to Grytviken, where they were given a tour of the South Georgia Museum and Grytviken whaling station by curator Elsa Davidson. Her Royal Highness officially opened the new addition to the museum, the Carr Maritime Gallery.

Outside South Georgia museum

Her Royal Highness and Admiral Laurence then visited the hydro-electric project recently completed by Morrison Construction on behalf of the South Georgia Government and declared the scheme officially open. This was followed by a visit to Sir Ernest Shackleton’s grave. In the early afternoon they began their voyage back to Stanley.

SGHT Trustees inspected the museum and were impressed with the attractive and professional displays and the well laid-out shop. In the afternoon we were kindly given a tour of the King Edward Point BAS research base by the scientists and research staff.

The following day the Grigoriy Mikheev sailed around Cumberland Bay to Jason Harbour to see the
hut built by C.A. Larsen and to enjoy the company of the seals and king penguins. Some of
the group went to Carlita Bay to visit the hut built some three years ago and named after Suzanna, the daughter of former South Georgia Commissioner Howard Pearce (now chairman of SGHT). Howard was accompanied on this visit not only by his wife, Caroline, but also by Suzanna herself.

Next day we undertook the "Shackleton walk" from a dazzling Fortuna Bay over to Stromness Bay. Most of the group then continued on walking to Leith, followed in the afternoon by a visit to Husvik to inspect the excellent renovation work to the Husvik manager’s villa carried out by SGHT Norway.

Tom Crean lake

On the 2nd of April we awoke to find that an overnight snowfall had transformed the landscape, providing a brilliant white background for the king penguins at St Andrews Bay, truly stunning in the sunlight.

St Andrews Bay in the sunlight

Our next destination was Ocean Harbour where, despite a large swell which prevented us from making a landing, the LASHIPA (Large-scale historical exploitation of Polar Areas) team who had just completed a survey of the whaling stations at Prince Olav Harbour and Ocean Harbour managed to join us for the journey back to Stanley.

Next day we enjoyed the spectacle of numerous elephant and fur seals, a large king penguin rookery and the occasional gentoo penguin at the varied and delightful Gold Harbour, before sailing to Cooper Bay for a look at the macaroni penguins.

Elephant seals at Gold harbour

The Grigoriy Mikheev then sailed up Drygalski fjord, with its contrast of brooding dark cliffs and hanging glaciers. Two juvenile right whales were seen in the fjord and an evening zodiac group in Larsen Harbour spotted a Weddell seal.

Passengers on the Mikheev Trustees, staff and guests of SGHT. Photo by Rolf Stange

As we sailed back to the Falkland Islands on a very gentle and unusual easterly sea, thinking about all of the island’s natural wonders and heritage treasures, everyone felt incredibly fortunate to have been part of a cruise with experts who had so generously imparted their knowledge and who were committed to the long term protection and management of South Georgia.